Analysis: A new research project is converting discarded polyester textiles into polyurethane to use as insulation to improve energy efficiency of homes
A recent report shows that there was a record 124 million tonnes of fibres produced in 2023. If we keep going at the current pace, this figure could reach 160 million tonnes by 2030. Every year, 5.8 million tonnes of textiles are discarded by EU consumers and 4.3 million of these are dumped. That’s the equivalent of 60 truckloads of clothes being burned or buried in landfill every single minute. Recycling efforts are barely making a dent, with less than 1% of clothes globally recycled back to clothing. I
It’s also a major climate issue: the textile industry generates 8 to 10% of all global carbon dioxide emissions, more than the emissions from air travel and shipping combined. In Ireland, the Government has pledged to reach net zero by 2050, with textiles being one of seven key products identified for improved waste management to aid emission reduction.
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From RTÉ Radio 1’s Today with Claire Byrne, are we overloaded with fast fashion?
Over the past 20 years, the amount of fibre made for clothing has doubled, and polyester now makes up 60% of all clothes produced and has revolutionised the fast fashion industry. But there’s a catch: polyester, unlike cotton, doesn’t break down. Made from fossil fuels, it can take up to 200 years to decompose in nature, and its ability to break down is affected by things like temperature, fibre structure, dyes and finishes, making the problem more complex. Polyester waste contributes to landfill pollution and microplastic release, especially during the first few washes
Fast fashion items, often low in quality, wear out quickly and are discarded after only a few uses, making this worse. With the expected growth in global textile production and consumption, sustainable textile waste management is becoming increasingly more important. It is therefore essential to develop sustainable and economical techniques for recycling polyester waste for a long-term protection of our resources and the environment.
At present, mechanical recycling breaks down old clothes into fibres that can be spun into new fabric. It’s the most common way to recycle polyester, but it has big limitations. Each time clothes are recycled this way, the fibres become shorter and weaker, reducing the quality of the new fabric.
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From RTÉ Radio 1’s Today with Claire Byrne, the environmental impact of fast fashion, especially returns
Chemical recycling offers an alternative by breaking polyester down into its basic building blocks, which can then be used to make new, high-quality fibres. Unlike mechanical recycling, it can handle complex materials, preserve fibre strength, and allow for repeated recycling without loss of quality.
The PUreTex project is working to make chemical recycling more sustainable by reducing its energy use and environmental impact. At the same time, it explores how to create valuable building blocks that can be reused not only to produce new polyester fibres and materials, but also to develop entirely new products, such as eco-friendly insulation for homes or sustainable paints.
Insulating buildings is one of the most effective ways to cut energy use, and the insulation industry heavily depends on virgin fossil-based materials. However, the PUreTex team began to examine if the basic building blocks from textile waste could be modified for use as insulation.
How the PUreTex project works
The team soon grew to include scientists, engineers, sustainability experts and behavioural psychologists. Their goal isn’t just to develop innovative recycling solutions, but also to understand the full life cycle of complex textiles, from how they’re made and used, to what happens when they’re thrown away. No matter how green the recycling process is, it’s clear that real change means tackling overconsumption at its source.
The big goal here is to prove that a low-energy, chemical recycling process can be scaled up, one that takes old clothes (gathered with support from charity partners) and transforms them into something genuinely useful. It will mean less pollution, fewer carbon emissions and a much-needed alternative to burning or dumping textiles.
But clever science alone isn’t enough and real change only comes when systems shift. Just look at how the plastic bag levy or the new ReTurn bottle scheme quickly changed everyday habits. We know Ireland is more than capable of leading the way. That’s why we’re also working with policymakers to help make textile recycling a national priority, and with designers to start designing clothes that are easier to recycle from the beginning.
Clever science alone isn’t enough and real change only comes when systems shift
Is there anything readers can do? Yes, embrace sustainable shopping habits. This means prioritising quality over quantity and making mindful purchases that minimise impact to the environment and society. You can start by shopping at thrift stores or buying second-hand clothing, which helps reduce pollution from newly manufactured garments. Repairing and upcycling old clothes before discarding them also prevents waste.
Opt for garments made from natural fibres over synthetic ones to lessen your ecological impact. Choose timeless, durable pieces instead of chasing fast fashion trends and low-quality items that wear out quickly. Additionally, donate or sell unwanted clothing to charity shops or clothing banks – what no longer serves you may benefit someone else. By adopting these habits, you actively contribute to first-hand clothing recycling through thoughtful behaviour, reducing the need for complex textile recycling solutions.
The PUreTex project is funded by Research Ireland’s Sustainable Communities Challenge
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The views expressed here are those of the author and do not represent or reflect the views of RTÉ
